São Tomé

The city was founded in 1485 in the northeast of the island of São Tomé by Portuguese colonists, who wanted to explore the cultivation of sugar cane. Sao Tome retains much of the colonial architecture, with buildings dating from the 16th century, such as the Fort of São Sebastião, now the National Museum. It is in the city center that the main commercial activities take place.

When to go: December and January are the best for birding as birds adopt their bright breeding plumage. From mid-November to early February turtles nest on the beaches, and you can watch the eggs hatching 45 days later. Humpback whales, killer whales and dolphins can be seen off the northeast coast from August to October. Trekking is best in the dry season from June to September.

The city has a tropical humid climate, with temperatures between 27-31 ºC, and frequent precipitation.

During the dry season from June to September, be prepared for clear skies and a very strong, equatorial sun. There are two rainy seasons – the short rains in October and November and the long rains from February to May.

• 1 São Tomé International Airport (TMS  ^IATA). STP Airways flies to Lisbon, TAAG flies to Luanda (Angola), TAP flies to Accra (Ghana) and Lisbon (Portugal) and Afrijet flies to Libreville (Gabon). There are also domestic flights to Príncipe airport using 19-seat Dornier propeller planes  (updated Aug 2017)

STP Airways is on the list of carriers banned from operating into the European Union, so its flights are operated by the Portuguese airline EuroAtlantic Airways.

Motorcycle, bicycle and car hire is available in the city center. The main taxi rank is next to the Municipal Market.

Shared yellow minivans ply multiple routes. These collectivos are usually 9 seats but the drivers will overpack to seat 12 passengers along with vegetables, luggage and other market produce.

The main routing being the highway on the East coast of the island from São Tomé city in the north to Porto Alegre in the far South tip of the island. You can stop one anytime by raising your hand as they pass.

The full 2.5-3–hour trip in either direction is quoted as 100 Dobra for the full trip to tourists. You can negotiate with the driver for shorter trips, and can stop anywhere along the route by shouting to driver.

Hire a scooter from the locals! They are friendly, and hotel staff will assist you with this. Cost is about US$20 per scooter.

If you are looking for a tour guide to drive you around, travellers recommend Luís (WhatsApp +239 995 4001, €90 per day, 2023).

• 1 Our Lady of Grace Cathedral/Cathedral of São Tomé (Catedral de São Tomé). A Roman Catholic cathedral, parts of the building date back to the 15th century, but since then significant alterations have been done, including in 1956, when the church was remodeled in an eclectic revival style, with a neo-romanesque main façade.  (updated Nov 2022)

• 2 Presidential Palace (Palácio Presidencial). Built in the mid-19th century as a governor's administrative center and expanded in 1954, the palace has served as the presidential residence since 1975. The palace is not open to the public and photography of the building is not permitted.  (updated Oct 2017)

• 3 São Tomé National Museum. Located in the historic Fort of São Sebastião, this museum showcases life during the colonial era and also has a collection of local religious art.  (updated Oct 2017)
• The coast of Ana Chaves Bay
• Avenida de 12 de Julho
• the Holy See Church
• The court building
• Independence Square

• Cascata de São Nicolau (Sao Nicolau Waterfall). To get there, you must have a 4x4 vehicle, and good footwear for slippery surfaces. A raincoat is recommended. (updated Aug 2019)
• Cascata Angolares is a larger and more adventurous waterfall

• Casa Museum Almada Negreiros, on the road to the Sao Nicolau waterfall - Roca da Saudade, ☏ . São Tomé cuisine. Also offers rooms with shared bath €65, with private bath €75. (updated Aug 2019)
• Chez Tete, Av. 12 Julho (on the outskirts of town: past the casino you turn right up a road and the right down a track), ☏ . Excellent grilled fish. (updated Aug 2019)
• O Pirata, Avenue San Gabriel, ☏ . Restaurant terrace looks over a beach with a shipwreck. English spoken. (updated Aug 2019)
• Cafe Camoes (in the centre of town), ☏ . M-Th 08:00-23:00, F Sa 08:00-01:00. Seafood. Local dishes. Bar services with petiscos (tapas). Good coffee and Wi-Fi. (updated Aug 2019)

• Cesar Cafe, Avenida 12 de Julho. Tu-Su 17:00-01:00. A drinks place facing the sea. Petiscos (like tapas), soups, live music on Saturdays. Nicely decorated with artifacts. (updated Aug 2019)
• Envy Bar STP, Rua Pascoal Amado (Rua Morta), ☏ . Tu W 18:00-00:00, Th-Sa 18:00-02:00. Nightclub where the rich and beautiful young things of STP sip pricey cocktails and dance to DJs. (updated Aug 2019)

• Visit the Municipal Market

Money can be exchanged on the street outside the Hotel Central - the vendors who approach are honest and the set rate is 25 Dobra for €1.

• 1 Sweet Guest House, Vila Dolores, Ed 087, ☏ , reservation@sweetguesthouse.com. Check-in: 13:00, check-out: 12:00. Clean and homey guest house 10-15 walk to the centre of town. A kitchen and lounge are available for meeting other travellers. Continental breakfast €7. Launderette next door. nDb979,592–1,326,531. (updated Feb 2021)

• 2 Hotel Central, Rua de Angola, ☏ . Check-in: 13:00–19:30, check-out: 00:00–11:00. One of the oldest hotels in the city. It's in the heart of the city and close to restaurants and markets. 14 rooms with AC, TV, mini fridge, kettle, and private bathroom. Daily lunch menus, and free Wi-Fi. nDb1,260,000–1,560,000. (updated Aug 2019)

• 3 Pestana Miramar Hotel, Avenida Marginal 12 de Julho 69, ☏ . Luxury hotel, in front of Ana Chaves Bay, 2 minutes' walk from the beach. Several gardens, infinity pools, a restaurant, full breakfast, two bars and free parking. Rooms have direct access to gardens with balconies overlooking the pool or sea and have Wi-Fi internet access. From €155. (updated Aug 2019)
• 4 Omali Lodge, Praia Lagartos, ☏ , reservations@hbdprincipe.com. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 11:00. Boutique hotel with 30 rooms and suites around a pool. It has the only tennis court in the country, and there is a beach across the road . nDb5,760,000–6,660,000. (updated Feb 2021)
• Agosto Neto^{[dead link]}, either a large B&B or a small boutique hotel. This quiet hotel is on a side street a couple of blocks from the Presidential Palace. The hotel is relatively new, spotlessly clean, and will open the kitchen upon request. Full breakfast is included. Internet access in the lobby, and the desk tries to speak English. A partner company, Netu Services, rents cars here. +239 222 6728

Safety is not an issue in São Tomé, though the roadway traffic is hazardous as in other parts of Africa. Violent crime in public is almost unheard of. However, with an increase in tourism there has been an increase in crime against tourists.

The Typhoid fever vaccine is not required of foreign visitors, but is advisable.